Friday 17 August 2018

Smilio Hut to Klisura on E4: Day 8

Today's 29 kilometre walk was through grassy meadows and mixed forest in the Verila hills, a lower range between the Vitosha and Rila mountain ranges.
I left before my Dutch fellow campers were up enjoying an early start. I soon reached the Petrus hut, where there was a better spring to fill up with water. The one at Smilio Hut was muddy and unattractive. All of today's walk followed vehicle tracks through meadows and mixed woodland. Among the long grass of the meadows, summer flowers were scattered; yellow, blue, white, purple and shocking pink. The yarrow, cornflowers, dandelions and knapweed may not have looked as fresh as in spring but they gave the meadows a jolly air. In places flakes of mica reflected the sun, like sequins scattered among the dust. At one point the driver of a 4 wheel drive Lada stopped and suggested an alternative route where I could use a chair lift to reach the huts in the Rila mountains. I explained I was walking, no chair lifts allowed.
The Rila range rose above me, getting progressively closer, patches of snow still visible despite it being August. Due to the haze the jagged peaks proved difficult to photograph.
Although the total ascent today was only 690 metres, the last 9 kilometres into Klisura was rather tiring, maybe an after effect of the large climb yesterday.
I stopped at the village of Klisura for an early meal of Shopska salad (tomatoes, cucumber, sweet peppers and a mild sort of feta cheese) and a chicken breast, served with just a couple of slices of bread. As there was no accommodation in the village I was able to book, I walked a few more kilometres and picked a secluded spot in the woods to camp away from the main track that was well used by vehicles. The insects which had bothered me all day, whenever I stopped, continued to try to attack me, so I am now hiding from them in my tent.

Petrus shelter

The path through summer meadows

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